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DISHWASHER FAULTS

Dishwasher Not Filling

No fill is commonly caused by a closed supply valve, kinked hose, blocked inlet filter, stuck float, anti-flood activation or failed inlet valve.

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Switch off, unplug and close the water supply before dismantling the appliance

Dishwashers combine mains electricity, hot water and hidden pumps. Stop using the machine if it leaks, trips the electrics, smells burnt or contains sharp broken glass.

MOST LIKELY CAUSES

Start with these

Supply valve closed The appliance tap may be off or seized.
Blocked inlet filter Debris can restrict water entering the machine.
Float or anti-flood switch active The dishwasher may think water is already present.
Inlet valve fault The solenoid may not open.
◫ Symptom variations Match the exact point in the wash cycle. ⌄
  • Machine starts but stays dry
  • Only a small amount of water enters
  • Inlet hum is heard
  • Error code appears at start
  • Problem began after moving appliance
✓ Quick checks Simple checks before removing panels. ⌄
  1. Note the exact cycle stage when the fault appears.
  2. Record any error code before switching off.
  3. Check filters, spray arms, hoses and visible water connections.
  4. Confirm the appliance is level and correctly loaded.
  5. Unplug before touching filters, hoses or internal parts.
If the cause is external: correct the hose, filter, loading or supply fault and test carefully.
If electrical, pump or internal leaks are suspected: stop and call an appliance engineer.
1 Step 1 — Check the water-supply valve Switch off and unplug before removing filters, hoses or panels. ⌄

Process

Confirm it is open without forcing it.

Success looks like: Water begins entering.
Escalate when: A seized or leaking valve needs replacement.
2 Step 2 — Inspect the inlet hose Switch off and unplug before removing filters, hoses or panels. ⌄

Process

Check for kinks, crushing and anti-flood hose warnings.

Success looks like: The restriction is removed.
Escalate when: A triggered anti-flood hose may require replacement.
3 Step 3 — Check the float area Switch off and unplug before removing filters, hoses or panels. ⌄

Process

Make sure the visible float can move freely and the base is not flooded.

Success looks like: The fill cycle can begin.
Escalate when: Water in the base indicates a leak that must be found.
⌁ Common causes explained Why dishwasher faults develop. ⌄

No fill is commonly caused by a closed supply valve, kinked hose, blocked inlet filter, stuck float, anti-flood activation or failed inlet valve.

The stage of the cycle is the main clue. Fill faults happen at the start, circulation faults during washing, heater faults once the wash is underway, and pump faults during draining.

⌘ Advanced diagnostics Appliance-engineer checks and repair work. ⌄
  • Test inlet-valve coils.
  • Check float and anti-flood switches.
  • Inspect inlet filter and flow meter.
  • Verify control-board output.
  • Check household pressure and supply flow.
▣ Parts that may need replacing Common components linked to this fault. ⌄
  • Inlet hose
  • Inlet filter
  • Inlet valve
  • Float switch
  • Anti-flood switch
! When to call an appliance engineer Conditions that should end basic troubleshooting. ⌄
  • The dishwasher trips the electrics.
  • Water leaks from inside the cabinet.
  • The circulation or drain pump is grinding or seized.
  • Internal electrical testing is required.
  • The appliance must be dismantled to reach the fault.
  • The same fault returns after basic checks.
? Frequently asked questions Common dishwasher questions. ⌄

Why is there a small amount of water below the filter?

A small amount can be normal on some models. Standing dirty water above the filter usually indicates a drainage fault.

Why are plastics still wet after the cycle?

Plastic retains less heat than glass or ceramic, so some moisture is normal even when the drying system works.

Should I keep resetting the electrics if the dishwasher trips?

No. Unplug it and arrange electrical fault testing.