Stop if there is heat, burning, arcing, exposed parts or water near electrical equipment
Fixed appliances can draw high current and may remain connected even when their controls appear off. Do not remove covers or test exposed conductors. Leave affected circuits isolated and call a registered electrician or qualified appliance engineer where fixed wiring or internal faults are suspected.
MOST LIKELY CAUSES
Start with these
Symptom variations Match the exact behaviour before testing. ⌄
- Oven and hob both dead
- Display works but oven does not heat
- Breaker trips when cooker starts
- Cooker switch indicator is off
- One function works and another does not
Quick checks Safe checks using controls and front-panel devices only. ⌄
- Check the appliance control panel, timer, thermostat and child-lock settings.
- Confirm the local isolator or fused spur is on and undamaged.
- Inspect the consumer unit for a tripped breaker, RCBO or RCD.
- Look for heat, smell, moisture, buzzing or discolouration.
- Attempt one controlled reset only if no danger signs are present.
Fix 1 — Check the cooker switch and breaker Follow this check without opening live or fixed electrical equipment. ⌄
Process
Confirm the cooker isolator is on and inspect the dedicated breaker.
Fix 2 — Set the clock and remove child lock Follow this check without opening live or fixed electrical equipment. ⌄
Process
Review the appliance display and controls.
Fix 3 — Stop using any hot or damaged cooker switch Follow this check without opening live or fixed electrical equipment. ⌄
Process
Turn off the dedicated circuit if safe.
Common causes explained Why the appliance or circuit may fail. ⌄
A cooker may be completely dead because of a tripped breaker, failed cooker switch, unset clock, child lock, damaged terminal block or an internal appliance fault.
Fixed appliances often use dedicated circuits, high-current isolators, fused spurs or local controls. The fault may be in the appliance, the control accessory, the cable or the circuit protection.
Advanced diagnostics Technician-level testing for a competent electrician. ⌄
- Verify supply at cooker control and connection unit.
- Inspect terminal block and cable condition.
- Test heating elements and thermal cut-outs.
- Check control board and selector switch.
- Measure insulation resistance and load current.
Parts that may need replacing Common components linked to this fault. ⌄
- Cooker control switch
- Cooker connection unit
- Heating element
- Selector switch
- Thermal cut-out
- Control board
- Cable termination
When to call an electrician or appliance engineer Conditions that should end DIY troubleshooting. ⌄
- The appliance or isolator is hot, burnt, buzzing or crackling.
- The breaker, RCBO, RCD or fused spur operates repeatedly.
- Water may have reached electrical components.
- The appliance is permanently wired or high current.
- The fault remains after simple control and supply checks.
- Internal covers or fixed wiring would need to be opened.
Frequently asked questions Common questions about fixed appliances. ⌄
Can the appliance be faulty even when the breaker stays on?
Yes. Controls, elements, motors and internal connections can fail without operating circuit protection.
Should I repeatedly reset a dedicated circuit?
No. One controlled reset is enough to confirm whether the fault remains.
Can I fit a larger fuse or breaker?
No. Protection must match the cable and appliance design. Increasing it can create a fire risk.