No Water From One Tap: Causes, Checks & Fixes

Isolate the hot and cold supplies before dismantling a tap

Use local service valves or the main stopcock. Do not force seized valves or tap handles. Keep water away from sockets and appliances, and stop if a cracked tap body, failed flexi hose or uncontrolled leak is present.

MOST LIKELY CAUSES

Start with these

Local valve closed The service valve may have been left off.

Blocked cartridge or inlet Debris can stop flow completely.

Kinked flexible tail A hose can collapse or bend sharply.

Frozen or restricted pipe Local pipework may be blocked by ice or damage.

◫ Symptom variations Match the exact tap behaviour before repair. ⌄

Only hot or cold side is dead
Tap worked before recent repairs
Other taps are normal
No flow but tap handle moves normally
Problem appears during freezing weather

✓ Quick checks Simple checks before removing tap parts. ⌄

Identify whether the fault affects hot, cold or both supplies.
Dry the tap and surrounding area to trace leaks accurately.
Check local isolation valves, flexible tails and visible connections.
Remove and inspect the aerator where flow is poor.
Do not force stiff handles, valves or seized fittings.

If the cause is found: keep the affected supply isolated until the correct repair is completed.

If the leak cannot be controlled: close the main stopcock and call a plumber.

1 Step 1 — Check the local isolation valve Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄

Process

Make sure it is open without forcing a seized slot.

Success looks like: Water returns.

Escalate when: If not, inspect the hose and cartridge.

2 Step 2 — Compare nearby outlets Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄

Process

Check whether the same hot or cold supply works elsewhere.

Success looks like: The fault is confirmed as local.

Escalate when: A wider supply issue needs separate tracing.

3 Step 3 — Inspect accessible hoses and pipework Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄

Process

Look for kinks, crushing or signs of freezing.

Success looks like: A visible restriction is identified.

Escalate when: Do not use open flames on frozen pipes.

⌁ Common causes explained Why taps drip, seize, leak or lose flow. ⌄

No water from one tap usually means a local isolation valve is closed, the cartridge is blocked, a hose is kinked, the pipe is frozen or one supply side has failed.

Tap faults often come from small internal seals, cartridges, washers and local restrictions. Water can also track down the tap body and appear under the sink away from the true source.

⌘ Advanced diagnostics Plumber-level checks and repair work. ⌄

Disconnect and test local supply after isolation.
Flush debris from inlet.
Replace blocked cartridge.
Replace kinked hose or faulty isolation valve.
Thaw and inspect frozen pipe safely.

▣ Parts that may need replacing Common components linked to this fault. ⌄

Ceramic cartridge
Flexible tail
Isolation valve
Pipe section
Tap inlet filter

! When to call a plumber Conditions that should end basic troubleshooting. ⌄

The local isolation valves will not close or are leaking.
A flexible hose is bulging, split or corroded.
The tap body or pipe connection is cracked.
The tap is heavily corroded or inaccessible.
A thermostatic or pressure-balance fault creates a scalding risk.
The leak or poor flow remains after basic service work.

? Frequently asked questions Common questions about tap faults. ⌄

How do I know whether the tap uses a washer or ceramic cartridge?

Traditional screw-down taps usually use washers. Quarter-turn and many lever taps use ceramic cartridges.

Can I replace a cartridge with any similar-looking one?

No. Height, diameter, spline count and inlet layout must match.

Why is only one side of a mixer tap weak?

That side may have a partly closed valve, blocked hose, inlet filter or cartridge passage.