Isolate the hot and cold supplies before dismantling a tap
Use local service valves or the main stopcock. Do not force seized valves or tap handles. Keep water away from sockets and appliances, and stop if a cracked tap body, failed flexi hose or uncontrolled leak is present.
MOST LIKELY CAUSES
Start with these
Symptom variations Match the exact tap behaviour before repair. ⌄
- Handle wobbles
- Handle turns without opening water
- Cap keeps lifting
- Grub screw will not tighten
- Handle sits at wrong angle
Quick checks Simple checks before removing tap parts. ⌄
- Identify whether the fault affects hot, cold or both supplies.
- Dry the tap and surrounding area to trace leaks accurately.
- Check local isolation valves, flexible tails and visible connections.
- Remove and inspect the aerator where flow is poor.
- Do not force stiff handles, valves or seized fittings.
Step 1 — Locate the retaining screw Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Check beneath the cap or behind the handle for a screw or grub screw.
Step 2 — Tighten gently Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Secure the screw without over-tightening.
Step 3 — Inspect handle and stem Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Remove the handle after isolation if necessary and check both mating parts.
Common causes explained Why taps drip, seize, leak or lose flow. ⌄
A loose tap handle is usually caused by a loose retaining screw, worn splines, damaged grub screw, cracked handle or worn cartridge stem.
Tap faults often come from small internal seals, cartridges, washers and local restrictions. Water can also track down the tap body and appear under the sink away from the true source.
Advanced diagnostics Plumber-level checks and repair work. ⌄
- Replace handle or spline adaptor.
- Replace damaged cartridge stem assembly.
- Repair stripped fixing thread where possible.
- Align handle correctly before tightening.
- Test full movement without binding.
Parts that may need replacing Common components linked to this fault. ⌄
- Handle
- Retaining screw
- Grub screw
- Spline adaptor
- Ceramic cartridge
When to call a plumber Conditions that should end basic troubleshooting. ⌄
- The local isolation valves will not close or are leaking.
- A flexible hose is bulging, split or corroded.
- The tap body or pipe connection is cracked.
- The tap is heavily corroded or inaccessible.
- A thermostatic or pressure-balance fault creates a scalding risk.
- The leak or poor flow remains after basic service work.
Frequently asked questions Common questions about tap faults. ⌄
How do I know whether the tap uses a washer or ceramic cartridge?
Traditional screw-down taps usually use washers. Quarter-turn and many lever taps use ceramic cartridges.
Can I replace a cartridge with any similar-looking one?
No. Height, diameter, spline count and inlet layout must match.
Why is only one side of a mixer tap weak?
That side may have a partly closed valve, blocked hose, inlet filter or cartridge passage.