Isolate the hot and cold supplies before dismantling a tap
Use local service valves or the main stopcock. Do not force seized valves or tap handles. Keep water away from sockets and appliances, and stop if a cracked tap body, failed flexi hose or uncontrolled leak is present.
MOST LIKELY CAUSES
Start with these
Symptom variations Match the exact tap behaviour before repair. ⌄
- Drip continues when tap is fully closed
- Drip gets worse over time
- Tap needs extra force to stop
- Only hot or cold side drips
- Drip returns after washer replacement
Quick checks Simple checks before removing tap parts. ⌄
- Identify whether the fault affects hot, cold or both supplies.
- Dry the tap and surrounding area to trace leaks accurately.
- Check local isolation valves, flexible tails and visible connections.
- Remove and inspect the aerator where flow is poor.
- Do not force stiff handles, valves or seized fittings.
Step 1 — Isolate the tap supplies Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Close the local service valves or main stopcock and open the tap to relieve pressure.
Step 2 — Identify the valve type Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Check whether the tap uses a traditional washer or ceramic cartridge.
Step 3 — Replace the failed sealing component Isolate water supplies before dismantling tap components. ⌄
Process
Fit the correct washer, cartridge or O-ring and reassemble carefully.
Common causes explained Why taps drip, seize, leak or lose flow. ⌄
A dripping tap usually has a worn washer, damaged ceramic cartridge, scored valve seat, failed O-ring or debris preventing the internal valve from sealing.
Tap faults often come from small internal seals, cartridges, washers and local restrictions. Water can also track down the tap body and appear under the sink away from the true source.
Advanced diagnostics Plumber-level checks and repair work. ⌄
- Inspect and reseat traditional valve seats where suitable.
- Replace ceramic cartridges with matching spline and dimensions.
- Check body O-rings and seals.
- Flush debris before reassembly.
- Test hot and cold sides under full pressure.
Parts that may need replacing Common components linked to this fault. ⌄
- Tap washer
- Ceramic cartridge
- O-ring set
- Valve headgear
- Tap reseating component
When to call a plumber Conditions that should end basic troubleshooting. ⌄
- The local isolation valves will not close or are leaking.
- A flexible hose is bulging, split or corroded.
- The tap body or pipe connection is cracked.
- The tap is heavily corroded or inaccessible.
- A thermostatic or pressure-balance fault creates a scalding risk.
- The leak or poor flow remains after basic service work.
Frequently asked questions Common questions about tap faults. ⌄
How do I know whether the tap uses a washer or ceramic cartridge?
Traditional screw-down taps usually use washers. Quarter-turn and many lever taps use ceramic cartridges.
Can I replace a cartridge with any similar-looking one?
No. Height, diameter, spline count and inlet layout must match.
Why is only one side of a mixer tap weak?
That side may have a partly closed valve, blocked hose, inlet filter or cartridge passage.